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When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners completely astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.